At a glance
| French terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Small flat loops, left unbrushed | Loops brushed into a soft, fuzzy nap |
| Warmth at the same weight | Moderate; air moves through the loops | Higher; the nap holds a layer of still air |
| Breathability | Better; feels cooler in warm weather and indoors | Lower; can feel stuffy indoors or when active |
| Hand feel inside | Dry, clean and slightly textured | Plush, soft and warm against the skin |
| Drape and look | Flatter, crisper drape; looped interior often shown as a design detail | Fuller, rounder body; the classic hoodie look |
| Pilling and lint | Less surface fuzz to pill; loops can snag on sharp edges | Brushed fibers can shed lint early and pill, more so in high-polyester blends |
| Best seasons | Spring, fall, mild winters, warm climates | Cold weather, outdoor events, winter staff wear |
| Decoration | Prints and embroiders on the smooth face like fleece does | Prints and embroiders on the smooth face; fiber blend drives ink choice |
French terry and fleece are the two fabrics behind most hoodies and crewnecks. From the outside they can look identical. Turn them inside out and the difference is obvious, and it changes how the garment feels, how warm it is and who will want to wear it.
How each fabric is made
Both start as a knit with two sides: a smooth face, like T-shirt jersey, and a back made of loops. Many sweatshirt fabrics are knit with three yarns (often called three-end): a face yarn, a fine yarn that ties the layers together, and a thicker yarn that forms the loops on the back.
French terry is that fabric left as it is. Inside you see rows of small, flat loops, sometimes called loopback. Nothing is brushed, so the inside feels dry and clean, a little textured, and it does not shed fuzz.
Fleece takes the same kind of looped fabric and runs the back through a brushing or napping machine, which pulls the loops apart into a soft, raised pile. That nap traps air, which is why fleece feels warmer and plusher. The fabric guide for cut and sew covers knit structures and weights in more depth.
Warmth and breathability
At a similar weight and blend, fleece is the warmer fabric. The brushed nap holds a layer of still air against the body; French terry's open loops let air move. That makes French terry the better choice for layering, for active wear and for climates where a hoodie is worn on cool mornings and carried by noon. Fleece suits cold weather, outdoor events and anyone who wants a hoodie to be the warm layer.
Weight still matters more than people expect. A heavy French terry can feel substantial and structured, and a light fleece can feel thin. Compare weight in oz/yd² or GSM along with the fabric type, as covered in how to choose a blank hoodie.
Feel, drape and look
French terry tends to drape flatter and crisper, with a slightly matte, clean look that suits premium basics and streetwear. Some brands show the looped interior deliberately on raw hems, inside hoods or in garment photos. Fleece looks fuller and rounder in the body and has the familiar soft inside that most people picture when they think of a hoodie.
Durability, pilling and shrinkage
Brushing raises loose fiber ends, so fleece can shed lint in the first few washes and is more prone to pilling, particularly in blends with a lot of polyester, whose pills do not break off easily. French terry has less surface fuzz to pill, but its loops can snag on jewelry, hook-and-loop fasteners or rough surfaces.
Both shrink if they are mostly cotton and are washed and dried hot. Pre-shrunk fabric, garment-dyed finishes or cross-grain construction (as on the Champion Reverse Weave hoodie) reduce the effect, and a sample washed the way customers will wash it is the honest check.
Decoration
The outside of both fabrics is a smooth knit face, so screen printing, DTG and embroidery treat them much the same. The things that change results are:
- Face fiber. A cotton face, as on the Independent Trading SS4500 solids and every Lane Seven LS14001, takes ink and DTG well. Blends with more polyester bring dye migration risk with light plastisol inks, especially in heather colors.
- Thickness. Heavy fabrics of either kind take longer to reach full cure in a dryer and need firm pressing for DTG pretreatment.
- Construction. Pouch pockets, side panels and hood seams limit print placement on both; the guide to printing on sleeves, hoods, pockets and zippers deals with each of those awkward spots.
For embroidery, both are stable bases for chest logos, sleeve hits and large back designs with a cut-away embroidery backing. A soft or covered backing keeps the inside comfortable where the fabric touches skin.
Blanks vs custom fabric
Stock blank hoodies lean heavily toward fleece, so French terry choices in ready-made blanks are narrower. Brands set on a specific French terry weight, color or hand often move to cut and sew, where the fabric is chosen first and the garment built around it. Blanks vs cut and sew explains when that step is worth the extra development.
Which to choose
- Choose French terry for warm or mild climates, spring and fall drops, layering pieces, active wear, and a cleaner, structured streetwear look.
- Choose fleece for cold-weather merch, outdoor events, winter staff and team wear, and when buyers expect the classic soft-inside hoodie.
- For decoration, decide by the face fiber and weight rather than the inside: a cotton face prints and embroiders best on either.
- If your audience spans climates, offer fleece hoodies for winter and French terry crews or hoodies for the rest of the year.
Sources
- Independent Trading Co. SS4500 product page, checked 2026-10-04
- Lane Seven LS14001 product page, checked 2026-10-04
- Champion.com Reverse Weave hoodie page, checked 2026-10-04
Useful for: clothing brands, companies, sports teams, skate and surf shops.